Please read the ZF6 Faq first before doing this swap. If you have any questions email me.

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Parts list:

Manual brake pedal
Manual clutch pedal + bracket, electrical connectors
Clutch master cylinder
Clutch slave cylinder
Clutch hydraulic hose
Clutch kit (pressure plate, disc)
Flywheel (dual or singlemass see FAQ)
Clutch pivot stud (see FAQ)
Clutch fork
Bell housing with hardware
91-96 Starter
ZF6 Transmission
ZF6 Yoke
Bell housing inspection cover
All associated hardware


Disconnect battery

Using an angle drill, and a 5/16" drill bit locate the 3 dimpled holes in
the firewall just above the battery. Drill out each of the holes using
the 5/16" drill bit and an angle drill. 

Replacing the 5/16" drill bit with a 3/4" drill bit, redrill the center hole
large enough for the rod's eyelit to come through the firewall. 


Remove the drivers seat and seat base.  Crawl under the dash, laying on your

Unplug the electrical connectors and heating duct, and move everything out
of the way. Using a 15MM wrench, and 15MM deep socket with a 3/8" ratchet
remove the nut and bolt securing the brake pedal to the bracket. Then remove
the pin holding the brake rod to the pedal. There are some wahers on either 
side of the rod, so don't lose them. 

Once the brake pedal is out of the way, grab a 13MM deep socket and 3/8" ratchet
and remove the brace from the dash that connects to the side of the frame. 

Once that is removed, using a 7MM nutdriver, remove the small electrical bracket
from the firewall. Then, on the flat section of firewall ABOVE the electrical
junction remove the 3" square section of insulation. It will snap right out. 

Grab the new brake pedal, making sure the spacer and two nylon ends are in 
place, and put it up into the bracket, replacing the bolt and nut previously
removed. Using the 15MM wrench and socket combo, tighten the bolt. Replace
the washers and pin securing the brake rod onto the new pedal. 

You may need to temporarily remove the bracket that holds the brake switch, to 
get the clutch pedal in place. It's tight, but it will get in there. 

Grab the new clutch pedal and bracket assembly, and work into place sliding
the the bracket OVER the top of the aluminum support beam, and aligning the
rear of the bracket to the holes on the firewall. Don't forget to slide two
8MM body nuts over the top of the bracket, so you can put the bolts in later.  

From the engine bay side, have someone install the clutch master cylinder, the
spacer between it and the firewall, and the two long bolts tightening into
the clutch bracket.  Tighten completly. 

Next, using two 8MM body bolts and a 13MM socketd + extension tighten the top 
two bolt locations. Connect the master cylinder rod.

Reconnect all wiring + heater ducts. Leave the connector to the clutch switch
for later connection.


Remove the center console plate. Unbolt stock shifter assembly. Push shifter
cable through hole in floor. Push key-lock cable out of the way. On the 
electrical connector, the BLUE and GREEN wires need to be extended down the
hole the shifter cable was in to the new transmission. These are for the
reverse lights. 

The two THICK purple and green (sometimes yellow) wires are for the clutch 
interlock switch. They need to be extended to the switch on the clutch pedal. 

The console will be re-assembled later in the swap.

Transmission removal:

The distributor MAY hit the firewall, so it's recommended to remove
the distributor prior to the following.

Disconnect the e-brake cable.
Remove exhaust components
Remove the driveshaft
Support the transmission
Remove the cbeam
Disconnect any wiring, cooling lines, etc from transmission
Remove bolts from torque converter
Lower engine + transmission assembly to gain access to top bolts.
Remove transmission bolts. 
Pry and disconnect transmission onto jack
Remove flexplate
Remove starter
Spray brake cleaner into center of crank, and clean.
If a 1pc rear main seal motor, now is a good time to replace seal.
Install timken roller pilot bearing.
Install flywheel. 
Install clutch assembly
Install bell housing, and fork assembly

Measure distance from BH to shifter area. mark floor and cut square into
the tunnel for shifter. 

Install transmission. 
Install cbeam
Transfering propper yoke to the driveshaft, install driveshaft.
Install hydraulic hose to clutch slave cyl, and install slave cyl.
Connect speedometer, and reverse light connectors. You may need to change
your speedometer connector - but the signal IS the same. 
Install inspection cover.
Install new starter. You will need to relocate the power cable from OVER
the engine to UNDER the engine. Make sure it is secured away from heat
or moving parts.

Finish installation:

remove center console assembly
Using fiberglass, or aluminum patch surrounding area of shifter square. 
Reinstall console assembly, using new manual shifter plate. 
Connect hydraulic hose to clutch master cylinder and fill with fluid. 
Let most of air bleed out of system, then slowly push clutch up and down,
periodically adding fluid until completly bleed. 

Test drive vehicle.