Please read the ZF6 Faq first before doing this swap. If you have any questions email me.
Parts list: Manual brake pedal Manual clutch pedal + bracket, electrical connectors Clutch master cylinder Clutch slave cylinder Clutch hydraulic hose Clutch kit (pressure plate, disc) Flywheel (dual or singlemass see FAQ) Clutch pivot stud (see FAQ) Clutch fork Bell housing with hardware 91-96 Starter ZF6 Transmission ZF6 Yoke Bell housing inspection cover All associated hardware Firewall: Disconnect battery Using an angle drill, and a 5/16" drill bit locate the 3 dimpled holes in the firewall just above the battery. Drill out each of the holes using the 5/16" drill bit and an angle drill. Replacing the 5/16" drill bit with a 3/4" drill bit, redrill the center hole large enough for the rod's eyelit to come through the firewall. Pedals: Remove the drivers seat and seat base. Crawl under the dash, laying on your back. Unplug the electrical connectors and heating duct, and move everything out of the way. Using a 15MM wrench, and 15MM deep socket with a 3/8" ratchet remove the nut and bolt securing the brake pedal to the bracket. Then remove the pin holding the brake rod to the pedal. There are some wahers on either side of the rod, so don't lose them. Once the brake pedal is out of the way, grab a 13MM deep socket and 3/8" ratchet and remove the brace from the dash that connects to the side of the frame. Once that is removed, using a 7MM nutdriver, remove the small electrical bracket from the firewall. Then, on the flat section of firewall ABOVE the electrical junction remove the 3" square section of insulation. It will snap right out. Grab the new brake pedal, making sure the spacer and two nylon ends are in place, and put it up into the bracket, replacing the bolt and nut previously removed. Using the 15MM wrench and socket combo, tighten the bolt. Replace the washers and pin securing the brake rod onto the new pedal. You may need to temporarily remove the bracket that holds the brake switch, to get the clutch pedal in place. It's tight, but it will get in there. Grab the new clutch pedal and bracket assembly, and work into place sliding the the bracket OVER the top of the aluminum support beam, and aligning the rear of the bracket to the holes on the firewall. Don't forget to slide two 8MM body nuts over the top of the bracket, so you can put the bolts in later. From the engine bay side, have someone install the clutch master cylinder, the spacer between it and the firewall, and the two long bolts tightening into the clutch bracket. Tighten completly. Next, using two 8MM body bolts and a 13MM socketd + extension tighten the top two bolt locations. Connect the master cylinder rod. Reconnect all wiring + heater ducts. Leave the connector to the clutch switch for later connection. Console: Remove the center console plate. Unbolt stock shifter assembly. Push shifter cable through hole in floor. Push key-lock cable out of the way. On the electrical connector, the BLUE and GREEN wires need to be extended down the hole the shifter cable was in to the new transmission. These are for the reverse lights. The two THICK purple and green (sometimes yellow) wires are for the clutch interlock switch. They need to be extended to the switch on the clutch pedal. The console will be re-assembled later in the swap. Transmission removal: The distributor MAY hit the firewall, so it's recommended to remove the distributor prior to the following. Disconnect the e-brake cable. Remove exhaust components Remove the driveshaft Support the transmission Remove the cbeam Disconnect any wiring, cooling lines, etc from transmission Remove bolts from torque converter Lower engine + transmission assembly to gain access to top bolts. Remove transmission bolts. Pry and disconnect transmission onto jack Remove flexplate Remove starter Spray brake cleaner into center of crank, and clean. If a 1pc rear main seal motor, now is a good time to replace seal. Install timken roller pilot bearing. Install flywheel. Install clutch assembly Install bell housing, and fork assembly Measure distance from BH to shifter area. mark floor and cut square into the tunnel for shifter. Install transmission. Install cbeam Transfering propper yoke to the driveshaft, install driveshaft. Install hydraulic hose to clutch slave cyl, and install slave cyl. Connect speedometer, and reverse light connectors. You may need to change your speedometer connector - but the signal IS the same. Install inspection cover. Install new starter. You will need to relocate the power cable from OVER the engine to UNDER the engine. Make sure it is secured away from heat or moving parts. Finish installation: remove center console assembly Using fiberglass, or aluminum patch surrounding area of shifter square. Reinstall console assembly, using new manual shifter plate. Connect hydraulic hose to clutch master cylinder and fill with fluid. Let most of air bleed out of system, then slowly push clutch up and down, periodically adding fluid until completly bleed. Test drive vehicle.